purchase a 72 510 4 door ~ my 1st dime

[420n620]

G morning, got the fuse block installed and put the correct fuses in. Cleaned all of the spade connectors, battery connected then turned the key and she is now turning over so I took a compression test and came up with good readings, maybe to good on one of the holes.
Here's what I got, #1 = 160, #2 = 190, #3 = 155, #4 = 160, on the first compression stroke it jumped up to 80 lbs then slowly stepped up about 10 to 15 until it reached it's final compression reading. I'm going to say thats a wet test since I squirted about 5 pumps of oil into each cylinders plus there's oil spewed all over the inner fender.
Also would like to mention that oil is oozing out on all the cam lobes.
I got a short day today to work on the dime because a friend is taking me steelhead fishing this afternoon and we don't stop fishing until midnight.
I'm going to try and get it started today before I go so I got to check the carb out, gap plugs, run temp gas can, make sure I got spark, fuel pump is working and a few other little things. If I get the time I'll post if I get it running today.

[420n620]

time to update, cleaned all the terminals on the fuse block, new fuses, cleaned coil connectors and resistor connectors, took the original carb off and found out that 3 screws that hold the top of carb were stripped and the accelerator plugger was not squriting fuel, so I took my 32/36 DGAV weber off the 79 620 and opened it up to make sure no dirt or deposits were going to cause any probs, all looked good. Got it bolted down, hooked the weber up to a temp gas line with a aux gas can, cranked it over for a few minutes and she now runs, except when I let go of the ignition key she dies. For some reason I knew that was going to happen. lol Guess it's time to do some researching so I can get it to stay running. Thats it for now.

[pl521sss]

Originally Posted by 420n620

cranked it over for a few minutes and she now runs, except when I let go of the ignition key she dies.

When you let it go from "start" position it dies?
Check the ignition coil if there's power while it's in "ON" position.

[420n620]

OK, I'll step out right now and check it, BRB

[420n620]

OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil = no light, when I turn the key into start position it lights up but goes out when I let go of the key.
key in on position - I put test light on positive side it does light up, when I go to start position it stays lit until I let go of the key, it goes off.


EDIT: I found out that the ignition switch was not returning all the way back to the on position, thats why the light was going out when I released the key.

now the 510 is running. Tomorrow, yank the gas tank out, clean the fuel lines, check all the running lights.

[pl521sss]

Originally Posted by 420n620

OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil = no light, when I turn the key into start position it lights up but goes out when I let go of the key.
key in on position - I put test light on positive side it does light up, when I go to start position it stays lit until I let go of the key, it goes off.


EDIT: I found out that the ignition switch was not returning all the way back to the on position, thats why the light was going out when I released the key.

now the 510 is running. Tomorrow, yank the gas tank out, clean the fuel lines, check all the running lights.

sweet

I say just drain the tank out.
Replace the fuel filter
Put new gas and see how it runs.

[slam_dat_sun]

I may be dead ass wrong but isnt this the high/low beam relay for the head lights ? The only reason I say that is my High beams did not work when I bought my 620 . I was investigating the problem and I seen a relay that looks like your relays twin and it had one of the wire connectors unplugged . So I plugged it in and now I have brights , the funny thing is in your picture it is located around your horns and mine is mounted by my horns

[420n620]

I'm not sure what it is yet, I'm still looking for a 72 510 manual, that pic is from my 510, did you score a dime.

[slam_dat_sun]

No way , I am not lucky enough to have a dime . It is better that I never have a dime cause I would more than likely drop a 383 stroker in it with a 2 speed power glide and a narrowed 9" ford rear end

[pl521sss]

Originally Posted by slam_dat_sun

I may be dead ass wrong but isnt this the high/low beam relay for the head lights ? The only reason I say that is my High beams did not work when I bought my 620 . I was investigating the problem and I seen a relay that looks like your relays twin and it had one of the wire connectors unplugged . So I plugged it in and now I have brights , the funny thing is in your picture it is located around your horns and mine is mounted by my horns

Nope
That's dual point relay for dual point Ignition.

[slam_dat_sun]

Haha that is one way to find out what it is , say you think it is something that it is not

[ghettobraden]

i dont know how i missed this!!!!! nice score!! save those 620's too!!!! cant wait to see more

[420n620]

Originally Posted by pl521sss

Nope
That's dual point relay for dual point Ignition.

AWWW,thats what it is, I guess something will have to been done with that when I drop the L20B in, it got EI.
is that going to cause a bunch of headaches when the time comes for the trans plant.

getto, I just picked up another 78 620 (# 9 ) last Saturday, my addiction is getting a little out of control. Wished some of you guys lived closer, I'm running out of space and can't squeeze any more on the property....

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil

should be + side of coil. or remove the wire from the coil it should ,lite up/12volts with key in ON position. - side of coil is ground and should not lite up, unless the distributor is position in a way where the light comes on cause its reading thru the length of wire in the coil . light really will be less brite or lower voltage.


as for the dual point relay if you have a 78 or later I think those would not be in the truck.

as for the 12volt in start and no 12volt in On on key position I sometimes have a loose connection under the turnsignal harness. I disconnect the plug and replug it back in some times.

pretty much standard if the blk/wht wire has 12volt in ON(12volt in START in point sytem cars,blk/blu in 510s) this car/truck electrical is fine. the relays will bot be used and can be made to work

[420n620]

I'll get a volts meter today and check what the volt reading is at the coil, both neg and pos just so I know. I think all I need to do is clean ALL the electrical plug connectors at the ignition switch and make sure I have good ground to the engine. She starts up fine after I wiggle the key around, kind of stiff to turn key, I need to pull the switch and clean it up with electronic cleaner, if thats possiable.

[banzai510(hainz)]

She starts up fine after I wiggle the key around

sounds like its its OK and just the key sticky.

[freaky510]

love the color my dime was that color when i first got it. shit as soon as i get some time am going to have to come over and check it out !!!!!!!


I need a vacation

[420n620]

that would be cool, give me a heads up if you do and I'll get the guest bedroom clean out for you.